You might notice these films i mentioned are all considered pro films and not consumer films,but this is what i prefer because the color is the same from roll to roll and batch to batch, as i shoot alot of film for normal/personal use and for school since im a photography major.

īut one warning about slide is that it has less exposure latitude then print film which means colors will wash/be blown out quicker so you have to slightly underexpose or hit the exposure dead on

yes(ISO 100 ) it is a slow film but with a strobe it doesnt matter, without the strobe i would go with a 400 speed film kodak EPN or supra 400 or fuji NPH. First off anybody at a photo processor who slams another film losses my respect and business(have done that more then once), becaues most likely this guy does nothing but feed the film into the machine with it set to auto correct and probably doenst know how to manuelly adjust the images(indivdually) to get the balance right(this is similar to what kodak does).įirst off once the film has been devolped you cant run the images through kodak sea processing, you can try from negatives but i havent done that yet, as kodak see processing is specially hand done from start to finish (do a search on sea processing and you should find a older post of mine about the processing and how its done)Īs for films i have used, i mainly i use is slide for underwater and above(even though its been over a year since i shot a roll of slide underwater) and i use Fuji Velva 100, Kodack Ektachrome 100, S, or VS or Elite Chrome (or extra color all iso 100) now for print films i use is fuji NPH (iso400) or NPS (iso160) or kodak.

Reefmaster cl